In the name of kid-friendliness, parents endure a lot of mediocre food. Because the dedicated family places, the places that have high chairs and a children's menu, for whatever reason don't offer reasonably priced, excellent food for grown-ups. The handful of exceptions in town include Green Hills Grill, which is why they make money hand-over-fist, and La Paz. (Not to slight some of the other great eating places that are doing a better and better job with families, including Noshville, Finezza, Sportsman and Chez Jose.)
It's one of those ``better mousetrap'' situations: Someone should have built one long ago. This generation of parents is dedicated to eating well, eating out, and taking along their little Jasons and Graces and Joshuas and Hannahs. Eateries that figure this out are in a position to succeed on an enormous scale.
Cafe Bambino is one of these. The superb food, by chef Michael Gray (formerly of the Mad Platter) and brilliant kid-friendly atmosphere means families are already filling up the place on weekends. There are plenty of grown-ups too, so you'll fit in without a tyke. There's a play area with plenty of creative toys: a giant stationary Lego set, a play nook with toys and a folding screen with a different activity on each of six surfaces. A mirror lets parents see into the crevices of the play nook, to check on Junior. Outside on the deck and in the yard are tiny little chairs and tables for miniature dining al fresco. Bambino offers two styles of high chair, one for infants, one for bigger children, both on wheels for easy transport to your table.
And there's a children's menu of chicken fingers and Cheerios, the crown jewel of which is the sandwich bread. Food coloring in the dough has turned it into a brilliant, multicolored swirl that no child in his right mind would shun. To wash down his psychedelic sandwich, Junior can also have a sippy cup of juice or milk (50 cents) or his own ``cappuccino'' (flavored hot milk with whipped cream).
The service is child-friendly too. I watched a persnickety 7-year cringe, grimace and groan theatrically that some vile strawberry stuff was touching her waffle. For some reason, her mother gave in to this behavior, and the kitchen very patiently and knowingly whisked away the offending plate and replaced it with a plain waffle on a spotless new plate no grody strawberry stuff in sight. (May this child never grow up to be a supper guest at your house; she'll be one of those people who asks what's on the menu before she accepts an invitation.)
The grown-up menu is also full of pleasant surprises. It's one of those where it's hard to decide what to get, because everything listed has enormous appeal. They don't just offer poached eggs; these are chile poached eggs on spinach polenta ($4.25). Steak and eggs become New York strip with boursin scrambled eggs ($6.25). Not just a juicy pork tenderloin sandwich, but one with a topping of smashed red new potatoes ($6.25), like Sunday dinner on bread. The most popular menu item, according to Gray, is the veggie quesadilla ($5.25), but I can't imagine how it outsells the incredible crawfish-poblano quesadillas ($5.95). The second-best selling item is the veggie bliss sandwich with havarti cheese and sun-dried tomato pesto ($5.95). It's clearly a menu focused on experimenting with lovable foods in combination, and the clientele are responding accordingly.
``I'll get as weird as they'll let me,'' says Gray. ``I took the hot dog off the menu, though I love hot dogs. I replaced that with grilled chicken wrapped in a burrito-size tortilla with rice, ginger slaw, and Thai pesto. It's a variation on a Wolfgang Puck recipe. It sold really well; one lunch we sold 25 of them and we only have 50 seats.''
If your taste runs to sweets, try baker Toby Williams' blueberry thistle coffeecake, or the pear cobbler, thin slivers of translucent pear in a whole-wheat shortbread crust. Sweets and desserts are $2.50.
Gray says the staff is a little surprised that they've turned into a restaurant, instead of strictly a coffeehouse that serves food. (Last year, Fido's Bob Bernstein said the same thing.) But it's no surprise to me: the Woodmont East neighborhood has long been in need of eateries. Anyway, the plan for now is eventually to open during dinner hours.
Our bills were surprisingly low: $22 for two adults and two children, $13 for two adults, plus coffees and desserts.
location:
Cafe Bambino
734 Thompson Lane. 383-4383.
Nicki Pendleton's "Eat Beat" is a regular feature of the Nashville Banner's Friday Backbeat section. All reviews are based on two or more visits. The Banner pays for all meals. We welcome your comments.
Copyright 1997, Nashville Banner
